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IT never ceases to
amaze me how in a matter of hours you
can be transported into another world.
In our case, we lifted off a New York
City runway not long after sunrise and
by noon were on a poor people’s beach
just outside the city limits of San
Juan.
This morning I awaken
in chilly darkness to the sounds of
Tita preparing breakfast for her
husband, whose construction job begins
at seven. Judging by her noisy
briskness and economy of motion, I
sense this must be a daily ritual
here. Soon Tita and Davy are talking
in low tones, with the scraping of
spatula on skillet and the glukking of
the coffee maker for accompaniment. My
limited Spanish allows me to pick out
only a few words from the
conversation, making its music all the
more noticeable. Theirs is such an
expressive language, so full of
nuance. Tita operates on several
octaves interchangeably. Davy speaks
in a gravelly tenor, his larynx coated
with years of cement dust, but he
appears to communicate emotion with
variations in cadence.
I imagine they are
having the kind of exchange spouses
typically have first thing in the
morning, about the needs of the
household, getting the kids to school,
and today, how to accommodate all of
the guests who have come to help them
repair their storm-ravaged home.
Tita and Davy are
locked in an ongoing battle with
nature. Twice in little more than a
decade their unusual mountain
village—the story of which I will tell
shortly—has borne the brunt of major
hurricanes. Their first house, a
ten-by-ten scrap plywood and tin
shack, was no match for the fury of
Hugo, in 1989. But, the young couple
was undaunted. They took their federal
hurricane relief check and began
pursuing their dream of building a
storm-proof home out of cinder block
and concrete.
I can feel the pride of
accomplishment in every gesture as
Davy gives me a tour of the house.
But, when I ask about the bright blue
tarp covering the roof, a look of
sadness flashes across his face. In
his Bronx-accented English, he
launches into the story of the last
hurricane to rip through the village:
George, in 1998. Apparently, this
storm spawned a series of small
tornadoes up here in the mountains,
and Davy could only watch helplessly
as one of the funnels careened toward
the sturdy work-in-progress into which
he and Tita had poured so much time,
energy and sweat. Other nearby houses
were spared, but not theirs, which
took a direct hit. The last thing Davy
saw before joining his wife and two
small children in the concrete storm
cellar was his corrugated steel roof
sailing off into oblivion.
The aluminum shutter
windows so typical in tropical
buildings were no match for a category
four hurricane either. The relentless
winds smashed their way in and
absconded with most of the house’s
contents. Only the refrigerator and
chest freezer were able to stand their
ground.
Six months passed
before Davy and Tita had the heart to
reenter their battered home to assess
the losses. Then, their grief and fear
mostly behind them, they decided not
only to repair the damage, but also to
parlay new hurricane relief funds into
making the house even bigger and
stronger than before.
If determination could
be measured like hurricanes and
earthquakes, then Davy and Tita’s
would be off the scale. Somehow—I
can’t explain why—they seem perfectly
at peace with the two steps forward,
one step back nature of their quest to
create for themselves a safe,
spacious, comfortable home, something
most of us take for granted back in my
world.
The answer, Davy tells
me, is to roof the new addition they
have begun constructing with
reinforced concrete, no small task in
this remote village. The job will
require days of tedious concrete
making with a small gasoline-powered
cement mixer.
Which is where we come
in, seven seventh- and eighth-grade
students and two teachers from an
inner-city free school in Albany, NY
(though first Tita has asked us to
build a retaining wall to halt the
storm erosion that is undermining the
house across the road). These kids are
no strangers to determination either.
They raised over $8,000 to make this
two-week trip possible, holding
benefit dinners, raffles, and
publishing an impressive forty-page
magazine for which they sold $1,500
worth of ads to local businesses. With
help from their sewing teacher, three
of the girls spent several months
fashioning a queen-size quilt out of
six hundred small squares that they
meticulously cut from beautiful scraps
of material donated by a nearby
textile mill. Supporters purchased
over a thousand one-dollar tickets in
the competition to become the quilt’s
future owner.
The work here is
anything but glamorous. First, the mud
from the slide caused by Hurricane
George has to be cut back and removed.
This means picking and shoveling tons
of the ubiquitous red clay, always
with the searing tropical sun bearing
down on us. But, the kids are up to
the challenge. By the time Davy
returns from work at three-thirty, the
site has been entirely prepared for
the sixteen-foot-long by six-foot-high
retaining wall. He is indeed
impressed.
The following morning,
we set in on building the plywood
forms for the wall. Ruel Bernard,
founder of the grass roots
organization known as Building
Community, which has been working
alongside residents of this village
for the past eight years, instructs
several of the kids in cutting rebar,
the steel reinforcing rods that will
give the wall the necessary strength.
The idea is to cut a little more than
half-way through the rebar with a
circular saw and special masonry
blade, and then snap the pieces off.
The rest of the kids help Tita set in
place and level the form for the
wall’s twenty-four inch-wide footing.
Now the real fun
begins. It takes all eleven of us to
wheel the heavy mixer down the steep
grade from a neighbor’s house and into
place near the wall project, where
there is already a pile of crushed
stone and another of masonry sand that
Tita and Davy have been using to make
concrete for their house. We divide up
into three groups. One hurriedly fills
rubber buckets with stones, while
another digs into the sand. As fast as
we can, we hand the full buckets to
Ruel, who is wearing ear protection
against the roaring rattle and clank
of the machine. He heaves the sand and
stone, along with bags of Portland
cement, into the spinning cylinder.
Water from a hose supplied by tanks on
the roof of the house we are trying to
save turns the mix into a lumpy, gray
stew. Finished batches are turned out
onto the road, to be shoveled into a
wheelbarrow by the third group and
then rushed down to Tita, waiting with
trowel in hand. It is said that she
can lay block and pour concrete with
the best of them.
The process takes a
sweaty, frenetic ninety minutes. We
are all bone-tired, but our sense of
accomplishment is more than equal to
our exhaustion. This was a real
display of teamwork and coordination.
Ruel is pleased with the grit of this
motley mix of budding teenagers, and
isn’t shy about telling them so.
As soon as the tools
and mixer are cleaned of cement
residue, the kids return to being kids
again. Dearon and Kenny, two
African-American boys from the
inner-city, have borrowed the plastic
go-cart belonging to Tita’s kids so
that they can join a group of youths
who are busy racing down the roughly
paved hill with anything that rolls.
Isaac, the third boy in the class, is
still preparing lunch. He lives in the
country about thirty miles outside
Albany and was the first to awaken and
join Ruel on the job this morning.
Unfortunately, he slipped and fell
hard, and his sprained wrist kept him
from participating in today’s pour.
Instead, he and Adrena have
volunteered for kitchen duty. The
oldest girl in the class, Adrena
suffers from chronic lower back pain,
which kept her from helping with the
concrete, too. Hannah, Sarah and
Nicole have decided to work on their
tans. They are lying out in a corner
of Davy and Tita’s well-kept front
yard, one in the string hammock, the
other two in the grass on either side.
The three quickly fall asleep, and
after a time I awaken them and urge
them to come in out of the sun before
they overdo it.
After a late mid-day
meal, plus a short siesta, we all grab
bathing suits, towels and toiletries
and load into the van for the
fifteen-minute ride to El Verde, part
of Puerto Rico’s rain forest national
park. Here, in a setting befitting a
Tarzan movie, we swim and wash away
the day’s sweat and grime. Because
water only occasionally flows from the
taps in the village, this will be a
functional, as well as a pleasurable,
daily visit.
Several local boys have
accompanied us to the river. They
begin ascending the rocky ledges
overlooking the waterfall-fed pool,
and in turns leap from a narrow perch
about ten feet above the water. Kenny
is the first of our kids to follow
them up. After a long moment of
indecision, he pinches his nose
between his thumb and forefinger and
plunges downward. When his head bobs
to the surface, his face is one big
smile. There is applause all around.
Nicole, a sturdy girl and one of the
morning’s best workers, is the next
daredevil, followed by Hannah, who is
Irish but was raised in Brunei. I
suspect that the boys from the village
are concealing their awe at the
bravery of these young gringas.
Next is Sandy, my
co-chaperone. She is a graduate
student in her mid-thirties, and is
basing her Ph.D. dissertation on field
research she has been doing at our
school for the past year. Everyone is
surprised to see her up on the ledge.
A tireless worker, too, she leaps
without hesitation, earning her own
outburst of cheers.
We frolic in the brisk
water for about an hour and then
return for a sumptuous Puerto Rican
meal that Tita has been preparing in
our absence. Large quantities of arroz
con habichuelas y pollo (rice with
beans and chicken) and salad are
consumed by the famished work crew. It
is a fitting end to a very good day.
THIS morning, the line of groggy heads
settled into the back of the couch on
Tita’s front porch reflects the
lingering weariness from yesterday’s
heavy work. Signs of homesickness are
beginning to emerge as well. Kenny is
quite articulate about his sentiments:
“Chris, I want to go home—now. I miss
my mother and my sister. And my dog.”
Ruel tells us that
today will be a light day. All we have
to do is construct the form for the
wall itself and install it with enough
bracing to withstand the pressure of
the concrete we will pour in on Monday
morning, after the new load of sand
and stone are delivered. But, when he
asks for volunteers to go to another
building site in the village to
scrounge 2x4s and plywood for the
form, there is a collective groan. The
romance of doing construction work to
serve others is wearing off fast.
With a little cajoling,
four kids drive off in the van with
Tita to fetch the needed materials.
Those who remain behind are
increasingly vocal about their
distaste for the idea of working again
today. Dearon asks Ruel why we are
doing this work in the first place.
And more to the point: Why don’t the
neighboring boys have to help, too?
They, not we, live here. Dearon spent
his first six years in Jamaica before
emigrating to Albany with his mother
and younger sister. He is wonderfully
unguarded, rarely hiding his thoughts
or feelings.
Ruel acknowledges the
importance—and the complexity—of
Dearon’s question. He easily could
have deflected him by preaching about
the importance of helping others and
about the satisfaction that results
from doing so, but that isn’t Ruel’s
style. He tells Dearon that in order
to answer him adequately he will have
to relate the story of how this
village came to be. He suggests that
tonight might be a good time for that.
It turns out to be
perfect. Thanks to the day’s less
physically challenging work and the
revitalizing waters of the river,
everyone is still feeling fresh and
alert after dinner. Once the dishes
are done and the leftovers put away,
Sandy and I round up the kids for
Ruel’s talk. Only Kenny refuses to
join in. Still missing home, he
registers his protest by
half-listening from his perch on the
swing out by the gate.
RUEL takes us back to 1940, when the
non-elected Puerto Rican legislature
passed the Land Reform Act. A portion
of land was to be taken from large
property holders and given to those
who had none. This attempt at economic
justice had two outcomes, both of them
negative: First, tens of thousands of
people living in semi-feudal
conditions on large sugar cane
plantations were displaced and forced
into the cities in search of
non-existent jobs; second, the
government never redistributed the
land.
By 1950, more than a
hundred thousand newly-urban poor were
squatting in the large mangrove swamps
surrounding San Juan. Finally, in
1980, a group of several hundred
families decided to take matters into
their own hands by occupying one of
the government parcels not far to the
east. Despite official demands to
vacate immediately, they pushed on,
methodically subdividing the land into
housing plots, laying out roads, and
helping each other fashion makeshift
dwellings that could hardly be called
houses. A church was established, as
well as a meeting space and several
stores.
They agreed on a name:
Villa Sin Miedo—Village Without Fear.
Here Ruel stops his
narrative to stress that this bold,
well-organized group was determined
from the start to act as a true
community. The land was to be held in
common, with individuals only owning
their homes. It was by working
together, making decisions together,
and staying together, he explained,
that they were able to make so much
out of nothing.
The story resumes. The
government continued demanding that
the residents of the Villa disband and
move out. The leaders were arrested
repeatedly, a reaction that only
strengthened the group’s resolve. Not
only did they refuse to leave, but
they began pressuring the government
to grant them title to their muddy,
hand-built village. And they didn’t
stop there. They made the government’s
failure to follow through on the Land
Reform Act a national issue, and
encouraged the formation of a
coalition of theirs and other such
“land rescues,” as the act of mass
squatting came to be known.
The Governor of Puerto
Rico responded with increased police
harassment and threats to forcibly
evict the community. Ironically, at
the same time that the Legislature in
San Juan was debating a bill to grant
Villa Sin Miedo its land title, an
eviction order was working its way
through the local courts. The courts
were faster, and early one morning in
May 1982, the Governor commanded
police to force their way into the
Villa and destroy it.
The invasion was
carefully planned. Hundreds of
military-style officers, armed with
M16s and incendiary grenades, and
backed up by helicopters and
bulldozers, moved in just after dawn.
All means of escape were sealed off.
It is widely believed that it was only
the presence of national and
international media that prevented the
occurrence of atrocities.
After the police
rounded up all of the residents in one
location, the community made an
intriguing move: They began to march
en masse down the highway to San Juan.
Word of the day’s events quickly
spread to the capital, where labor
unions dispatched trucks to ferry the
marchers—who had since been joined by
hundreds of supporters—into the city.
The convoy proceeded to the Capitol,
where, once the residents of Villa Sin
Miedo had reassembled, they marched
in, occupying the building. They
refused to leave until the government
agreed to allow them to return to the
land—with title.
Three days passed. A
second confrontation with police
forces was averted when an
Episcopalian church offered the
community a year’s use of a piece of
vacant rural property that it owned,
about an hour from San Juan. This
would buy time for further
negotiations.
Vindicated, at least
for now, the entire community
resettled and started over. It turned
out, however, to be one of the
rainiest years in recent memory. The
new site was located near a swamp; the
mosquitoes were unbearable. Complete
silence turned out to be the
government’s only negotiating stance.
One by one, families began to drift
away, tired of being cooped up in
rain-soaked tents. As the end of the
year-long land loan neared, only fifty
families remained.
Throughout this period,
the leadership of the community had
been lobbying the support of religious
and political organizations. The work
finally paid off: A coalition of
groups presented Villa Sin Miedo with
a donation of $50,000.
A search committee came
across an abandoned coffee plantation
that was for sale in the Luquillo
Mountains, about forty miles southeast
of San Juan. The price was low because
the rain forest terrain would make
development extremely difficult. The
steep hills were blanketed with large
trees and a dense tangle of
undergrowth. Used to challenges that
most would consider absurd, Villa Sin
Miedo made an offer anyway, which was
accepted.
The fifty families
moved their tents onto their new land
and began clearing sites for permanent
houses. Roads had to be built, without
the aid of heavy equipment. As they
had the first time around, the
residents decided that the land would
be owned by the community. Everyone
would receive an equal-sized plot on
which to build their own homes, which,
due to the lack of cash, would again
be crude dwellings made out of found
materials.
ALTHOUGH Ruel has been talking for
nearly half an hour, he hasn’t lost
anyone’s attention. Dearon, whose
question precipitated tonight’s
session, is the only one who worried
me. His fidgeting has been increasing
steadily. Until last year an
unsuccessful student in schools where
history is so often turned into a dry
and lifeless subject, he has already
been listening longer than might be
expected.
Ruel continues: Once
everyone in the Villa had a roof over
their heads, the focus turned toward
the need for a common gathering space.
A local rural development agency
offered to fund the construction of a
community center. Plans were drawn for
a building large enough to hold
meetings and social events for the
fledgling village’s entire population,
and more importantly perhaps, for it
to be made out of reinforced concrete.
The reason for this
last detail would soon become
apparent. In the fall of 1989, civil
defense authorities drove up to the
Villa to warn that a killer hurricane
was approaching, and to advise
everyone to evacuate immediately to a
Red Cross emergency shelter down in
the valley.
A community meeting was
hastily called. After an intense
discussion, the entire community
elected to ride out the storm right
there in the community center.
Hugo zeroed in on the
mountains around Villa Sin Miedo. When
the vulnerable walls of the community
center-turned-hurricane shelter began
to tremble from the force of the wind,
the inhabitants took turns holding
sheets of plywood, which had been
serving as temporary partitions
between families, against the walls to
keep them from collapsing inward.
The walls held. When
the storm had finally passed and
people stuck their heads tentatively
out of the building, they witnessed
unfathomable devastation. Whatever
trees hadn’t blown over were stripped
of every leaf or frond. Only scant
traces remained of the shacks they had
been living in for the past five
years.
The Red Cross would
later declare that Villa Sin Miedo’s
shelter was the best run on the entire
island.
The final wrinkle in
the story involves the Villa’s
application to the Federal Emergency
Management Agency (FEMA) for hurricane
relief funds. FEMA initially
determined that the Villa was
ineligible because the residents did
not hold individual titles to their
property. Perhaps FEMA didn’t realize
with whom it was dealing. The
community appointed delegates to
reason with the agency, which soon
reversed its decision and awarded the
Villa enough money to make at least a
start on hurricane-proof block and
concrete houses. Hugo was literally
the silver lining inside the cloud.
Which, Ruel interjects,
is what brought him onto the scene: He
had read about the hurricane’s
punishment of Puerto Rico, where he
had gone on a fondly remembered
hitchhiking tour a few years earlier.
He was a carpenter by trade and wanted
to see what he could do to help.
First, he traveled to Vieques, a small
offshore island that had also been
wrecked. While he was there, he
learned about Villa Sin Miedo, that it
was in urgent need of help to rebuild
its housing stock with funds that
would only cover the cost of
materials. Upon hearing the Villa’s
incredible story, he suddenly had a
vision of bringing other Americans to
this community to assist with its
recovery efforts.
Ruel made his way to
Villa Sin Miedo, where he witnessed
firsthand the residents’ solidarity, a
carry-over political term from the
sixties that is Ruel’s preferred way
of describing strong unity in a group.
It was there that he decided to call
his organization Building Community.
It’s mission: to work with—not
for—those in need, creating a spirit
of mutual aid in the process. He also
chose to make Villa Sin Miedo his base
of operations.
DEARON, unable to sit still any
longer, has drifted off before getting
to hear an explicit answer to his
question. He and Kenny are back
playing in the road with the local
boys.
Ruel has sensed,
rightly so, I think, that Dearon’s
question was everyone else’s as well.
And so he goes on: “The reason we are
here,” he explains to the remaining
group, “is to help keep alive the
solidarity, the strong sense of
community, that built this village in
the first place. Every time Building
Community shows up and begins a new
project, such as the one we have taken
on, it provides yet another
opportunity for people to work
together. It also,” he adds, “tends to
spur Villa residents to initiate
needed projects of their own.”
As for Villa kids not
joining in, Ruel reminds the class
that the local children have to go to
school during the day, and that this
afternoon a few did stop by to help
with the construction of the form. He
finishes this point by stressing the
importance of the local children’s
witnessing the kind of hard work and
cooperation that has enabled their
parents and grandparents to sustain
Villa Sin Miedo. The next generation
of leaders will have to come from
their age group, just as Tita, who was
fifteen when it all began, emerged
from the last. What Ruel wants my kids
to understand is that it isn’t just
the physical labor they are doing here
this week that is valuable, but also
the modeling of hard work and
cooperation.
Ruel concludes by
noting the absence of Dearon and
Kenny, and then by saying that what
they are doing right now—making
connections with the Villa kids
through play—is a very important step
in building community. He is talking
about community on a broader scale
now, the bridging of different
cultures. This is something that will
be happening more and more as the week
wears on.
THE sand and stone arrive on schedule,
meaning that today we can fill the
heavily braced form with concrete.
It’s going to be a formidable task.
The wall will require our mixing and
hauling—this time in individual
buckets—three or four times more
concrete than the footing. A half
dozen adults of all different ages
from the Villa, plus two Americans who
worked with Building Community seven
years ago and arrived yesterday
afternoon, have volunteered to assist
with the pour.
One of the helpers is
Tita’s mother. Her face is that of a
woman in her sixties, but her
well-muscled body is that of someone
much younger. It announces that she
has mixed and moved more than her
share of concrete in this life.
Kenny and Dearon ask if
they can start the motor on the mixer
this time. Ruel shows them how to wrap
the rope around the pulley. After a
dozen or so increasingly effective
tries, the motor gives a few hopeful
chugs. The next yank yields half a
dozen. Finally it catches, and Ruel
adjusts the idle.
We divide ourselves
into three groups again. The presence
of the others enables us to form a
semi-bucket brigade to pass the heavy
pailfuls of concrete down to the
waiting form. Young, sore muscles
strain against the weight. As soon as
one batch has been scooped up and
tossed down into the form, another is
ready to be turned out onto the road.
The form is about two-thirds filled by
lunch time. We jointly agree to push
on and try to finish before we stop to
eat. But then misfortune strikes. The
downward pressure of the concrete
begins forcing the form up off of the
footing. About half of the concrete
from the downhill section of the wall
rushes out from under before we are
able to add more bracing and staunch
the flow.
Vellon, a neighbor who
is running the mixer this time, shouts
to Ruel that to be safe we should take
a break and allow the concrete in the
form to set up. Otherwise, he warns,
the problem may recur and more
concrete will be lost. Two steps
forward, one step back, I mutter to
myself. I was hoping that lunch would
signal the end of this back-breaking
job.
After the meal, we take
advantage of the time off and get out
the tents that Ruel has offered to
lend us for the next leg of our trip,
following the week in Villa Sin Miedo.
We plan to spend a couple of days
beach camping on the offshore island
of Vieques, so that the kids can have
a taste of the Caribbean, and so that
we can find out more about the recent
controversy over the United States
Navy’s use of two-thirds of the small
island municipality for munitions
storage and bombing practice. We have
been following the issue in the news
for the past few months and want to
see what Vieques natives have to say
about it.
Everyone regathers at
three to complete the pour. It’s a
real act of will to get going again.
Thankfully, this time there are no
mishaps. We are all done by five, and
while the rest of us are cleaning
tools and buckets, the kids are
happily scratching their names into
the top of the wall they have just
helped to build.
After dinner the kids
go off to build more community. A
group of Villa boys has invited our
seven to join them on the lighted
basketball court, which Villa
residents built a number of years ago,
for a game of kickball. It’s been
interesting how, the longer we stay,
the more the two groups are merging
together. It’s like watching a deck of
cards being shuffled very slowly. I am
impressed at how everyone is coping
with the language barrier. The Free
School kids’ little bit of Spanish and
the Villa kids’ modicum of English are
going a long way.
This time it is Sarah
and Nicole who put a dent in the
machismo of the local boys. Both very
athletic, the girls consistently pound
the ball over the wall at one end of
the court for home runs, something the
slightly-built Puerto Rican boys are
able to do only occasionally. The
girls carry their superiority
graciously, but the older boys begin
to boil over with frustration anyway,
loudly blaming each other for the
lopsided score. Someone wisely
suggests mixing up the teams before
things get out of hand.
The next morning at
breakfast we discuss the
gender-related cultural difference
that we’ve observed, in which we’ve
noticed that only the boys come around
the house, except for a couple of
nearby six-year-old girls who play
with Tita’s daughter. Ruel explains
that in Latino culture, especially in
the countryside, girls are kept close
to home where they are expected to
help their mothers with household
affairs. Only the boys are allowed to
roam free. Another difference. Another
lesson. Increased understanding.
WHAT else are these seventh- and
eighth-graders learning by serving
others in this very different world,
sixteen hundred miles from home?
Starting with the obvious, we can say
that they are indeed discovering how
good it feels inside to help those in
need, to work alongside them to
improve the condition of their lives.
Included in the bargain is an
unforgettable lesson in the power of
cooperation. Though it was by no means
easy, the job of pouring the wall went
much faster than the kids had ever
expected, thanks to the presence of so
many helping hands.
Additionally, by living
under third world conditions, the kids
are enjoying a vacation from
technology and an encounter with
nature instead. Without things like
televisions and Play Stations to
occupy them, they are spending the
majority of their time out of doors.
When they aren’t playing games, they
are exploring the forest and
encountering all sorts of unusual
birds and creepy crawlies, as well as
beautiful flora, fauna and wild fruit.
And they now know
beyond a doubt—after carrying bucket
after bucket for flushing toilets from
an outside storage barrel—that water
weighs approximately eight pounds per
gallon. The conservation of resources
has suddenly taken on a whole new
meaning for them.
On a more subtle level,
the kids are being appreciated and
honored for making a valuable
contribution to the world around them,
something American children are often
deprived of in a modern, high-tech
society in which so much is done for
them, and in which there is so little
opportunity for them to participate in
the real life of the town or city
where they live. Tita has been showing
her gratitude in many ways, ones that
don’t require a common language:
braiding and beading Kenny’s long
hair, weaving a string and bead
necklace for Dearon, washing the
girls' filthy work clothes, teaching
Sandy how to cook Puerto Rican-style,
preparing meal after delicious meal.
Also, by being away
from home for two weeks in such an
unfamiliar environment, the kids are
finding out that they have inner
resources they can tap into in order
to maintain their sense of
equilibrium. And that they also have
each other for support. I have
traveled with kids this age many times
over the years, and I am always
profoundly moved by how bonded the
groups become as a result of our
sharing these kinds of experiences.
I am reminded of the
adolescent rites of passage of
pre-literate peoples around the world
that are receiving so much attention
these days. Separation from home and
all that is familiar, some sort of
perceived danger and the accompanying
fear, and hardship or challenge are
common elements of all such rituals,
regardless of the culture. All three
ingredients will present themselves
during our two weeks abroad. For some
of the kids, flying constitutes the
danger; for others, the darkness of
the nights or being so far from home.
The distance, with an ocean in
between, combines with the length of
our visit to the island to generate a
profound sense of separation. And
thanks to the hard work and Spartan
living conditions, the children are
experiencing more hardship and
challenge than these inner-city kids
have ever known in their relatively
pampered American lives.
NONE of us can believe how quickly the
week has flown by. Unfortunately, the
construction of the wall has taken
longer than Ruel had anticipated, and
the only work we have been able to do
on Tita and Davy’s house is to form up
one of the concrete beams that will
support the new roof. The kids have
fallen so in love with Tita, who has
become everyone’s surrogate mother,
that I think they wanted to make more
of a contribution right here.
Tita throws us a
farewell party on our last night in
Villa Sin Miedo—yet another display of
gratitude. She grills up a massive
pile of pinchos, or chicken shish
kabobs, and lays out a spread of chips
and soda to go with them. We all eat
to the point of bursting. The sadness
of parting lingers in the air.
The celebration winding
down, Ruel floats the question whether
we would like to return next week to
paint the wall. He will have the forms
off by then and the concrete will be
sufficiently cured. The answer, not
surprisingly, is a unanimous yes. We
decide that we will return to Puerto
Rico after we visit Vieques for four
or five days of touring, and that we
will to seek out Adrena’s grandmother
and grandfather on the far western end
of the island. Her father, who died
when she was a little girl, was Puerto
Rican, and she hasn’t seen his parents
for years. Then we will head back to
Villa Sin Miedo for the final
twenty-four hours of our trip.
THE wall is first to greet us on our
return to the Villa, shining white in
the afternoon sun. While we were gone,
Ruel not only removed the forms, but
he also invited the best mason in the
village to stucco over the concrete
with a special mortar coating. Willie
is such an expert that he has managed
to erase entirely the bulge caused by
the leak. Ruel and the other two
American visitors then primed it with
a base coat.
Now, our kids can apply
the finishing touches. They had a
mural-planning discussion during the
van ride up into the mountains and
have agreed on a design: a large
Puerto Rican flag in the center of the
wall, with Villa Sin Miedo written on
one side and Albany Free School on the
other. In larger letters will be the
word solidaridad—in solidarity. Space
will be left under our school’s name
for other Building Community groups to
sign in before they leave.
Tita locates a small
flag to serve as a template, and Ruel
helps the young artists to project an
enlarged outline onto the wall. They
are just about done when I get back
from the hardware store with the
proper color paints and enough brushes
for everyone. The job goes quickly,
propelled by a prideful sense of
completion. While the kids fill in the
stripes and single star on the flag,
Sandy, an expert calligrapher, does
the lettering.
Tita joins us just as
we’re stepping back to take in the
magnificence of the mural. She sums up
her approval in one word: Buenissimo!
Ruel is especially pleased by the way
the wall project turned out to be such
a joint effort. There is talk now of
turning the house we have just helped
to save, which has been mostly
unoccupied for several years, into a
computer learning center for the
children of Villa Sin Miedo. In any
event, the wall/mural is a permanent
symbol of cooperation. Sitting
prominently at a “T” intersection in
the road to this section of the Villa,
it will serve as a vivid reminder of
the time we spent here, learning and
serving.
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